SY Two Moons

Republic of Panama to The Galapagos

SV FreeWheel

February'16

We were able to get a direct flight from Toronto to Panama City, then hop into a taxi for a frenetic two hour ride (that cost almost as much as the flight), to Shelter Bay Marina, where we met up with Free Wheel. Shelter bay is on the north side of the isthmus (Atlantic) at the north end of the Panama Canal. It is inside a decaying, but active Panamanian army base, once used by the US for jungle training of troops destined for

Vietnam

. Where the marina ends, the jungle starts, so at dawn and dusk the howler and Capuchin monkeys set up quite a chilling chorus. Some mornings, we followed the old camp asphalt roads into the jungle to watch the monkeys flit across the tree canopy, being careful not to stand below them, because as a show of territorialism they would pee down on you, throw sticks, or worse, hurl their poop. Never being bird watchers, the jungle presented a colourful attraction that drew us more than once. On one walk Grace crossed paths with a black panther. This section of the jungle is also a national park.

Shelter Bay with abandoned barracks in distance

Unsuccessful drug boats in the military compound

We ended up staying in the marina far longer than planned owing to a botched repair job on the refrigeration, by a marina repairman. The new cooling plate was so damaged that a replacement had to be flown in from the US. As a result we were unable to visit the renowned San Blas Islands, but settled for a four day shakedown sail to Portobello. This deep bay was the focal point for the Spanish when shipping their pilfered Aztec gold back to Spain. We were told that there was so much gold at one point, the Customs house (see pic) became full, requiring the excess to be stored outside in the yard.

Portobello Bay

The customs building too small to hold the booty

While still waiting for the fridge part, we went to Panama City to enjoy the annual carnival, which had more LOUD music than substance. In fact, it is the first parade that we have ever seen twice because it looped to draw out the event. We later learned that the bigger carnival events are in the small towns and most city dwellers leave for those attractions. We had gotten it wrong again.

Embarra Indians

Like so many countries, treatment of their indigenous peoples is less than satisfactory. We visited an Embarra Indian village on the Chagress River, who today, exists only on tourism. In the eighties, their lands were decreed to be national park, such that they could no longer farm or hunt. The majority have moved to Panama City (35,000), with only 900 remaining in the park. We experienced an enjoyable day, learning about their history, their culture, their food and of course being able to purchase some of their high quality crafts.

Heading to the village

Canal Transit

With the fridge fixed and our allotted canal transit date arrived, we headed to the anchorage to await the arrival of out pilot. Every boat is required to have four line handlers, a helmsman and a pilot. We were now into “hurry up and wait” mode. The pilot arrived three hours late and insisted we hurry up.

The 80 km. canal consists of two sets of locks (three up/three down), with a man made fresh water lake in the middle. Non commercial boats are rafted together and pass through when the schedule allows. Our transit took two days because we locked up at dusk, picked up a mooring ball for the night and completed the trip the next day (after our new pilot finally decided to show up). Coming out of the first set of locks, we found water spraying all around the engine room (a loose hose caused by a rotted hose clamp). While still motoring to the anchorage, I had to replace the clamp and stop water egress, otherwise the pilot could declare us unfit to complete the transit. This could have meant rescheduling our passage through, plus further costs atop of the prepaid fees. (translates into another $1000+ because of a $5 clamp).

Following the channel through the man made lake was boring and in fact apart from the clamp episode and excitement in the very last lock, it was hot and dull. We have now done it once and don’t want to do it again.

In the very last lock we found there to be a current drawing the raft quickly towards the down stream lock gates. The pilots apparently knew about this, but said nothing. The longshoremen, who took our lines, had put them in the wrong place, so the raft started going sideways approaching the wall. Helmsmen of the raft started bellowing instructions when the pilots should have been in control. It took a lot of straining on the lines to bring the raft under control. In preparation for the trip I had read about boats being damaged in this Miraflores lock, but could not understand why. Everything seemed so benign.

A tight fit

Its looks so innocent, even now

We stayed for a few days, at anchor, outside of Panama City, taking on car loads of provisions, in preparation of our jump to the Galapagos and beyond.

Panama to Galapagos

This 980 nm trip took us eight days because the winds were variable to none. At the equator sits the ITCZ (doldrums) where the north and south weather patterns converge. Being first timers, we were all looking forward to crossing the equator. In fact we did it three times drifting back and forth with the current and breeze. The engine had died and it took six hours in the hot engine room to find that a small orifice in the fuel filter was plugged with crud from the fuel tanks.

Crossing the line - the first time

While at sea, when the waters were oily flat, the skipper scrubbed the entire bottom of the boat because of the stringent entry rules into the Galapagos. Upon arrival at our port of entry on San Cristobal, nine officials boarded us all at once. Two men dove to inspect below the waterline, there was our agent, police, immigration, customs, harbour master, naval officer and a guy who fumigated the boat such that we had to leave for two hours, right when it started to rain. And did it rain! For over two hours it was more than torrential. The streets quickly became rivers.

So we have been at anchor here for two days and I have discovered that I (Mike) like boobies, especially the blue ones. (Although the red ones are also nice). The seals are without fear and sleep where ever they want. The local boats are ringed with barbed wire as a deterrent. Freewheel has a stern scoop, leading to a vertical three step ladder and a gate. In the middle of the night a seal was able to negotiate the ladder and the gate to sleep on the deck. Come morning all that was left was his calling card(s).