SY Two Moons: North Aegean - Khalkidhiki Penninsula & Northern Sporades

Hi All:

This update is relatively short because of the lack of unique features encountered in this part of the Med. We were originally a little dispirited from our change in plans from going to the Black Sea to exploring the North Aegean Sea. We actually felt like we were filling in time. But we have enjoyed the area immensely. Having left Turkey we have gone as far north as the sea would allow around the Khalkidhiki Peninsula, turned south through the Northern Sporades and are poised to enter an inland route exiting near Athens.

This is an area seldom cruised by yachtsmen, but we have found it offers some dramatic coastal scenery and supposedly some of the best sandy beaches in Greece. The area lacks the archeological sites found elsewhere, but this is because the Sporades were out of the main steam of history. Much is restored due to a major earthquake in 1965.

The heat has been intense as of late (40ish), but this region has been out of the strong northerly winds east of us, which have kept boats in that region harbour bound for two weeks. We in fact have needed to motor more than sail. Only just today have we had a good downpour to rinse the caked salt from Two Moons. The air is clearer also, so visibility is improved. The high level of evaporation from the sea creates a haze as is evident in some of our pics.

Khalkidhiki Peninsula

This area was the highlight of our cruise in this region, in that it has a collection of 20 very large monasteries dotted along the shores and mountain sides. The Akti Peninsula has been off limits for about 10 centuries to women, children, female animals and “smooth faced persons”. They have however relaxed the female animal and smooth faced person restrictions in the last century, but women and children are still unwelcome. Passing boats must stay off shore about one nautical mile if women are aboard. Hence our pics are limited by distance and hazy, but if you wish to see more check out Google Earth – The Akti Peninsula where others have posted better examples of the magnificent monasteries.

Apparently the inhabitants still use the Julian Calendar and their day is regulated by the Byzantine clock which has hours of varying length.

Also scattered throughout the area are single buildings inhabited by hermits which in some cases hang on the steep mountain slopes – no water – no electrics.

In our two day passage along its coast we saw next to no life, but just marveled at the Herculean effort necessary to bring in the materials and construct such structures in so inhospitable location.

Northern Sporades

This series of islands have been refreshingly different from their southern cousins. Good anchorages abound; the islands are green, many covered with pine, unlike the barren rocks south and the inhabitants are very friendly. Most of the harbours are full of small fishing boats, but their catch always appears miniscule. The most western island in the chain, closest to the mainland, Skiathos, is referred to as the Greek Riviera, owing to its fine beaches and excellent ferry access.

Molivos on Lesvos - the town typicaly built around the fortification

If there is one bugaboo about travel through the region is the frustrating shopping hours. Nothing opens before 10:00 am, shuts for the afternoon and reopens about dinner time and closes around 9:00pm……maybe. Different days have different schedules, but none that we have sorted out.

Mirina on Limnos

Mirina on Limnos Island

As we head south we are getting closer to Athens and holiday time so anchorages and harbours will overflow sooner in the day. Maybe not, what with the Greek economy. But the situation has not yet dampened the young Greeks enthusiasm to spend time late into the night in the many, many tavernas.

Now we watch the sabre rattling between Siria and Turkey. Maybe we won't winter in Turkey as planned.

Best wishes as the summer continues to roll out………Mike and Grace