Galapagos and The Marquesas   May 17, 2016

 Hi All:

 

Galapagos (March 21 – April 8)

It is two weeks ago since we checked into the Galapagos and we are now making preparations to check out and undertake our really long sail (3000nm) to The Marquesas.

 

One of the Saddleback Tortoise

 

A Marine Iguana

Some of the lay abouts on Santa Cruz

We have seen quite a bit here at the archipelago, but nowhere near as much as we had anticipated. The Park Authority is very restrictive about where you can visit and practically always requires that a guide be in attendance. This makes perfect sense when you see the flora and fauna being protected. Our entry permit enabled us to stop at three island harbours, from where we were required to purchase day cruise packages. There are many areas we hoped to be able to visit, but were not allowed unless we were on a 3-4 day cruise ship program. Even if we hired a guide, we were not permitted. This sort of ruling does not sit well and in fact has convinced many cruisers, like us, to bypass the area on their way west. The high entry fees/bureaucratic rigmarole/travel restrictions/expensive travel packages seem to outweigh the benefit derived. The choice areas appear reserved for those on the pricey cruise ship plans. But there is a check mark on our bucket list.

 

Food and beverages at the grocery store are pricey because most is brought in by boat. Some examples: 1 liter long life milk: Panama $1/Galapagos $3, 1 liter box red wine – Panama $3/Galapagos $12, small jar Peanut butter: Panama $4/Galapagos $10. In short at least double the cost of everything, or more. Travel accommodation however is a bargain, with prices sitting around $20-$50/night, depending on the elegance of the room(s).

So we experienced the blue and green footed boobies (didn’t see red), the giant tortoises, the sea turtles, the penguins, the many sea lions and seals, the stately land iguanas and the black swimming ones. We had a lesson on the habits of the frigate birds. They are predatory and only eat what they can steal from other birds, acquired by catching the other birds in flight by the tail and shaking them until the prey regurgitated the food. We snorkelled amongst white tipped sharks and many tropical fish. There are some seriously beautiful beaches to stroll (without a guide), which was absolutely necessary because, the daily temperature is 8 degrees higher than average. This is having an impact on the food chain. I know we are losing weight.
 

Topography on island off Santa Cruz - pure dessert

Under every cactus were land iguanas - not so colourful since mating season was past

Blue footed boobie

 

At the end of our two week stay the boat was loaded with as much fresh produce as we could find, which wasn’t a lot. We purchased two stalks of green bananas to see us through our passage. Four days later all bananas had fallen off one stalk and the other was only days behind and we hadn’t even left port.

 

At Isabella Island we checked out making sure we had our zarpe – a document that signifies you have properly checked out at your last port and can be entered into the next. Without it you can be refused entry and be required to return to the last port and with 3000 nautical miles facing us ………….

The Marquesas: May 17’16

 

Our trip to the Marquesa Island group was not without its challenges. Firstly the traditional trade winds never materialized, so we did not enjoy what is known as the Coconut Milk Run.  At times there was zero wind and some of the purist sailors took down their sails and went to bed for the night.

A few days out of the Galapagos we lost the second auto steering, which necessitated hand steering for the bulk of the passage. The first died enroute to the Galapagos. Twin head sails purchased specifically for this run were too much for the head stay and damaged the furling mechanism relegating them useless. We had to use a smaller sail to maintain headway. We also flew a genaker (a very light air sail, which had never been flown) to make speed. But despite these handicaps, we still completed the passage in 24 days.

 

There were approximately 200 boats heading the same way (Tahiti) from various points east, at different times, under a common flag known as the Pacific Puddle Jumpers. It is a very informal regatta, with a daily radio net to keep track of one another, just in case help was needed. One boat we were monitoring was a single hander who left from Panama and was into his 45^th day. But we are told the record is held by another single hander who took 60 days to complete the trip.

 

Being part of French Polynesia, The Marquesas are French possessions and rely on French support. We took time to visit five islands, each one providing a view into daily life. Our favourite was Fatu-Hiva simply because of the dramatic island topography. Trading fruit and meat for fishing gear, clothes or rope was more common than exchanging currency because obtaining the goods directly was easier than importing to the islands. Their homes are very basic with minimal furnishings, but all seemed to have the flat screen TV.

 

We ourselves are hampered by the inability to obtain repair materials. All must come via Tahiti, with a hefty transportation fee attached plus time delay.

Our favorite anchorage thus far - Fetu-Hiva

Today we are at our last Marquesian Island Nuku-Hiva (the Capital) trying to bring the boat into a suitable state of repair to handle the last 700 miles down to Tahiti. Since arriving in the Marquesas, the water maker has failed and requires parts not available until Tahiti. This is where the old definition of cruising is derived – cruising is fixing boats in exotic places.

Central Park in Atuona, Hiva-Oa

 

In the next few days we hope to visit Herman Melvilles’ (Moby Dick) home stead. We saw where Gaugin lived his lusty life style. Chicken is plentifull, if you can catch one as they all roam the islands free range. To get fresh produce here you must be at the local market around 5:00 am or it will all be gone. Even then variety is limited.

The view on Hiva-Oa from Paul Gaugin's grave site

Pretty good example of all Marquesian Islands - IMO

 

As usual, we feel we are just skimming the surface and not staying long enough to fully absorb this Polynesian life, but The Tuamotus andTahiti awaits……..M&G