Marquesas-Tuamotus-Tahiti - Plan B  July ‘16

Marquesas – Nuku Hiva

Before we left the Marquesas, we rented a car to tour Nuku Hiva. The vistas we encountered were marvellous. The extreme ranges in flora as the elevation changed made you question if you were still on the same island. PICS The road itself was a challenge going from 5 kilometres of paved two lane to single lane goat track and back to paved for no explicable reason. We rarely got out of 2^nd gear! Chickens are everywhere, but in the higher elevations cows and horses roam freely (mainly on the road). Wild pigs were also a common site.

With such lush vegetation, we couldn’t understand why we needed to be at the local vegetable market by 5:00 am in order to get the slim pickings that were offered. The real treat, however, was at the local dock where fresh yellow fin tuna was to be had for $5 a kilo.

Early on the docks for fabulous tuna

A great tiki rebuild (except the palm leaf roof is plastic)

This is one island that definitely held “the wow factor” for us.

The Tuamotus

After a week at Nuku Hiva, we moved on. Having just been “fixed” after two hours the auto pilot packed it in again, which necessitated 200 more miles of hand steering.

The Tuamotus are a series of coral atolls covering an area 600kn by 1500km and are said to be the largest group of coral atolls in the world. Only half have a pass enabling a boat to enter inside the reef which must be negotiated with the tides and depending upon what the winds have been doing there could be a build-up of water inside or a deficit changing the nature of the water flow.

Look close for one that didn't get the tides right

According to Darwin these circular reefs are the remnants of a volcanic island, where the coral reefs formed around the shores. But the volcano has since disappeared leaving the low string of palm fringed islands making up the atoll.

We had no problem with our first atoll Ahe, but once inside found it littered with bouys marking the black pearl oyster beds.

Our first atoll was Ahe,  a smaller one where you can see all inner shores (motus) once inside. Some of the motus are connected by low concrete bridges built by French legionaries. The principal mode of transport around Ahe, apart from the open fishing boats was the three wheeled bicycle. Some cars and trucks, but when your stretch of road is only 5-10 kilometers the bike makes good sense. Folks were very friendly and quickly realized our high school French was something best forgotten.

The dark blue patch is 500 meters/the white is 2 meters

The string of motus ringing the atoll

Homes are smallish, run on solar panels, have large water catchment systems, with many having additional reinforcement against the winds.

This is the rope and sand bag approach

Practically everything comes in by boat from Tahiti – food, building supplies, fuel and this is reflected in the price.

Snorkelling around the many coral heads was not inspiring because the coral is struggling owing to bleaching from the sun. Fish population is diminished due to coral decline and overfishing by the locals.

Our second atoll was Rangiroa. One with a very large interior, such that you couldn’t see the other side and it had two passes. The water in the passes runs quite strong, but apparently it is wide enough and deep enough to enable a large cruise ship to slip in.

Across the atoll is a lagoon (Blue Lagoon) which could be visited by your own boat, but because of distance, the many coral heads and poor anchoring possibilities we opted for a day trip with a local tour operator. The ride over and back at 20+ knots in lumpy seas will remain memorable. But, although the lagoon was very picturesque the snorkelling was lacklustre. Inside the lagoon were many black tipped sharks (benign) ranging in length up to about one meter and constantly hovering around while swimming. Outside the lagoon, where the tour operator threw all the lunch leftovers were lemon sharks 2-3 meters long, creating quite a frenzy when the food hit the water.

 A BBQ on the beach was provided and at the end of the meal three large parrot fish were laid on the BBQ. Instinct said – don’t eat the parrot fish/they are coral fish and susceptible to ciguatera (a toxic substance that comes from the coral and works its way up the food chain). But the belly said – it looks good and the locals are eating it. Should have listened to the brain. I had an afternoon of what we dubbed Rangiroa Rage, but Magnus’ endured his for three days. – if in fact that’s what hit us.

 On the return trip the operator dropped us into the nearby pass and here the snorkelling was exceptional. Vibrant coloured coral and fish were to be found in abundance. Unfortunately it was an out going tide and we were swept past much quicker that we would have liked. So we later visited another pass by dinghy and found the same plethora of sea life, which we enjoyed at our own pace.

Before we left the Rangiroa atoll we visited a local pearl farm to learn how the oysters are seeded to create the pearl and why they are black. The pricing however remains a mystery.

Inserting the shell irritant into an oyster

Note the white shell irritant in the center

Tahiti

We were fortunate in leaving for Tahiti when we did because the weather changed and blew hard the following week. Safely inside the reef which rings Tahiti we watched the 2-3 meter waves crash upon the reef, curling along in one continuous wave for hundreds of meters. At the right sun angle the entire wave shone an azure blue. Just the stuff brochures proclaim.

Doesn't do it justice - a 3-4 meter wave breaking over the reef

Plan B

We are now moored in the Tanai Marina, Tahiti, having sailed 4600 nautical miles and have been notified by the owners that they are selling the boat here in Tahiti. The long distances and constant mechanical break downs have been more that they wished to endure.

So Grace and I have booked flights to New Zealand, Tasmania and Australia and will be renting “land yachts” (camper vans) to complete the passage we had originally envisaged. Sounds like a good plan, but it is now their winter period and this morning’s check on weather indicated night time temperatures in the range of two and three degrees Celsius. Snow might also be possible in the more southerly areas. At least the beaches won’t be crowded, but there goes the tan.

We have done some touring around Tahiti and agree it is our least favourite destination this summer. There aren’t the high rise hotels you see in Hawaiian travel pics, but there are 117 kilometres of road with 40,000+ vehicles. I’ve stood where Captain Cook stood in 1769 to take his sextant sights on Venus and also where Captain Bligh landed in 1788. The vegetation is very lush, PIC  but we just haven’t encountered “the wow factor” experienced in other landfalls. The people remain very friendly, but it is just too busy, noisy and uninspiring. You have to admire the tattoo artwork displayed on practically everybody and it is tempting……… but on a 66 year old sagging body, I fear an embarrassing smudge may be the best result. I feel like we are going to miss the best part of the Pacific Islands by ending the sailing trip here, but maybe another opportunity will arise where we can make those missed landfalls and then we can reconsider that tattoo.

Nana (goodbye)……….Grace and Mike

The land crab (this one about 25cm) lives in a burrow, climbs trees and can cut through a coconut husk and shell

Galapagos and The Marquesas   May 17, 2016

 Hi All:

 

Galapagos (March 21 – April 8)

It is two weeks ago since we checked into the Galapagos and we are now making preparations to check out and undertake our really long sail (3000nm) to The Marquesas.

 

One of the Saddleback Tortoise

 

A Marine Iguana

Some of the lay abouts on Santa Cruz

We have seen quite a bit here at the archipelago, but nowhere near as much as we had anticipated. The Park Authority is very restrictive about where you can visit and practically always requires that a guide be in attendance. This makes perfect sense when you see the flora and fauna being protected. Our entry permit enabled us to stop at three island harbours, from where we were required to purchase day cruise packages. There are many areas we hoped to be able to visit, but were not allowed unless we were on a 3-4 day cruise ship program. Even if we hired a guide, we were not permitted. This sort of ruling does not sit well and in fact has convinced many cruisers, like us, to bypass the area on their way west. The high entry fees/bureaucratic rigmarole/travel restrictions/expensive travel packages seem to outweigh the benefit derived. The choice areas appear reserved for those on the pricey cruise ship plans. But there is a check mark on our bucket list.

 

Food and beverages at the grocery store are pricey because most is brought in by boat. Some examples: 1 liter long life milk: Panama $1/Galapagos $3, 1 liter box red wine – Panama $3/Galapagos $12, small jar Peanut butter: Panama $4/Galapagos $10. In short at least double the cost of everything, or more. Travel accommodation however is a bargain, with prices sitting around $20-$50/night, depending on the elegance of the room(s).

So we experienced the blue and green footed boobies (didn’t see red), the giant tortoises, the sea turtles, the penguins, the many sea lions and seals, the stately land iguanas and the black swimming ones. We had a lesson on the habits of the frigate birds. They are predatory and only eat what they can steal from other birds, acquired by catching the other birds in flight by the tail and shaking them until the prey regurgitated the food. We snorkelled amongst white tipped sharks and many tropical fish. There are some seriously beautiful beaches to stroll (without a guide), which was absolutely necessary because, the daily temperature is 8 degrees higher than average. This is having an impact on the food chain. I know we are losing weight.
 

Topography on island off Santa Cruz - pure dessert

Under every cactus were land iguanas - not so colourful since mating season was past

Blue footed boobie

 

At the end of our two week stay the boat was loaded with as much fresh produce as we could find, which wasn’t a lot. We purchased two stalks of green bananas to see us through our passage. Four days later all bananas had fallen off one stalk and the other was only days behind and we hadn’t even left port.

 

At Isabella Island we checked out making sure we had our zarpe – a document that signifies you have properly checked out at your last port and can be entered into the next. Without it you can be refused entry and be required to return to the last port and with 3000 nautical miles facing us ………….

The Marquesas: May 17’16

 

Our trip to the Marquesa Island group was not without its challenges. Firstly the traditional trade winds never materialized, so we did not enjoy what is known as the Coconut Milk Run.  At times there was zero wind and some of the purist sailors took down their sails and went to bed for the night.

A few days out of the Galapagos we lost the second auto steering, which necessitated hand steering for the bulk of the passage. The first died enroute to the Galapagos. Twin head sails purchased specifically for this run were too much for the head stay and damaged the furling mechanism relegating them useless. We had to use a smaller sail to maintain headway. We also flew a genaker (a very light air sail, which had never been flown) to make speed. But despite these handicaps, we still completed the passage in 24 days.

 

There were approximately 200 boats heading the same way (Tahiti) from various points east, at different times, under a common flag known as the Pacific Puddle Jumpers. It is a very informal regatta, with a daily radio net to keep track of one another, just in case help was needed. One boat we were monitoring was a single hander who left from Panama and was into his 45^th day. But we are told the record is held by another single hander who took 60 days to complete the trip.

 

Being part of French Polynesia, The Marquesas are French possessions and rely on French support. We took time to visit five islands, each one providing a view into daily life. Our favourite was Fatu-Hiva simply because of the dramatic island topography. Trading fruit and meat for fishing gear, clothes or rope was more common than exchanging currency because obtaining the goods directly was easier than importing to the islands. Their homes are very basic with minimal furnishings, but all seemed to have the flat screen TV.

 

We ourselves are hampered by the inability to obtain repair materials. All must come via Tahiti, with a hefty transportation fee attached plus time delay.

Our favorite anchorage thus far - Fetu-Hiva

Today we are at our last Marquesian Island Nuku-Hiva (the Capital) trying to bring the boat into a suitable state of repair to handle the last 700 miles down to Tahiti. Since arriving in the Marquesas, the water maker has failed and requires parts not available until Tahiti. This is where the old definition of cruising is derived – cruising is fixing boats in exotic places.

Central Park in Atuona, Hiva-Oa

 

In the next few days we hope to visit Herman Melvilles’ (Moby Dick) home stead. We saw where Gaugin lived his lusty life style. Chicken is plentifull, if you can catch one as they all roam the islands free range. To get fresh produce here you must be at the local market around 5:00 am or it will all be gone. Even then variety is limited.

The view on Hiva-Oa from Paul Gaugin's grave site

Pretty good example of all Marquesian Islands - IMO

 

As usual, we feel we are just skimming the surface and not staying long enough to fully absorb this Polynesian life, but The Tuamotus andTahiti awaits……..M&G

 

 

 

Republic of Panama to The Galapagos

SV FreeWheel

 

February'16

We were able to get a direct flight from Toronto to Panama City, then hop into a taxi for a frenetic two hour ride (that cost almost as much as the flight), to Shelter Bay Marina, where we met up with Free Wheel. Shelter bay is on the north side of the isthmus (Atlantic) at the north end of the Panama Canal.  It is inside a decaying, but active Panamanian army base, once used by the US for jungle training of troops destined for  Vietnam. Where the marina ends, the jungle starts, so at dawn and dusk the howler and Capuchin monkeys set up quite a chilling chorus. Some mornings, we followed the old camp asphalt roads into the jungle to watch the monkeys flit across the tree canopy, being careful not to stand below them, because as a show of territorialism they would pee down on you, throw sticks, or worse, hurl their poop. Never being bird watchers, the jungle presented a colourful attraction that drew us more than once. On one walk Grace crossed paths with a black panther. This section of the jungle is also a national park.

Shelter Bay with abandoned barracks in distance

Unsuccessful drug boats in the military compound

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We ended up staying in the marina far longer than planned owing to a botched repair job on the refrigeration, by a marina repairman. The new cooling plate was so damaged that a replacement had to be flown in from the US. As a result we were unable to visit the renowned San Blas Islands, but settled for a four day shakedown sail to Portobello. This deep bay was the focal point for the Spanish when shipping their pilfered Aztec gold back to Spain. We were told that there was so much gold at one point, the Customs house (see pic) became full, requiring the excess to be stored outside in the yard.

Portobello Bay

The customs building too small to hold the booty

 

While still waiting for the fridge part, we went to Panama City to enjoy the annual carnival, which had more LOUD music than substance. In fact, it is the first parade that we have ever seen twice because it looped to draw out the event. We later learned that the bigger carnival events are in the small towns and most city dwellers leave for those attractions. We had gotten it wrong again.

 

 

Embarra Indians

Like so many countries, treatment of their indigenous peoples is less than satisfactory. We visited an Embarra Indian village on the Chagress River, who today, exists only on tourism. In the eighties, their lands were decreed to be national park, such that they could no longer farm or hunt. The majority have moved to Panama City (35,000), with only 900 remaining in the park. We experienced an enjoyable day, learning about their history, their culture, their food and of course being able to purchase some of their high quality crafts.

Heading to the village

 

 

Canal Transit

With the fridge fixed and our allotted canal transit date arrived, we headed to the anchorage to await the arrival of out pilot. Every boat is required to have four line handlers, a helmsman and a pilot. We were now into “hurry up and wait” mode. The pilot arrived three hours late and insisted we hurry up.

 The 80 km. canal consists of two sets of locks (three up/three down), with a man made fresh water lake in the middle. Non commercial boats are rafted together and pass through when the schedule allows. Our transit took two days because we locked up at dusk, picked up a mooring ball for the night and completed the trip the next day (after our new pilot finally decided to show up). Coming out of the first set of locks, we found water spraying all around the engine room (a loose hose caused by a rotted hose clamp). While still motoring to the anchorage, I had to replace the clamp and stop water egress, otherwise the pilot could declare us unfit to complete the transit. This could have meant rescheduling our passage through, plus further costs atop of the prepaid fees. (translates into another $1000+ because of a $5 clamp).

 

Following the channel through the man made lake was boring and in fact apart from the clamp episode and excitement in the very last lock, it was hot and dull. We have now done it once and don’t want to do it again.

 

In the very last lock we found there to be a current drawing the raft quickly towards the down stream lock gates. The pilots apparently knew about this, but said nothing. The longshoremen, who took our lines, had put them in the wrong place, so the raft started going sideways approaching the wall. Helmsmen of the raft started bellowing instructions when the pilots should have been in control. It took a lot of straining on the lines to bring the raft under control. In preparation for the trip I had read about boats being damaged in this Miraflores lock, but could not understand why. Everything seemed so benign.

A tight fit

Its looks so innocent, even now

We stayed for a few days, at anchor, outside of Panama City, taking on car loads of provisions, in preparation of our jump to the Galapagos and beyond.

 

Panama to Galapagos

This 980 nm trip took us eight days because the winds were variable to none. At the equator sits the ITCZ (doldrums) where the north and south weather patterns converge. Being first timers, we were all looking forward to crossing the equator. In fact we did it three times drifting back and forth with the current and breeze. The engine had died and it took six hours in the hot engine room to find that a small orifice in the fuel filter was plugged with crud from the fuel tanks.

Crossing the line - the first time

 

While at sea, when the waters were oily flat, the skipper scrubbed the entire bottom of the boat because of the stringent entry rules into the Galapagos. Upon arrival at our port of entry on San Cristobal, nine officials boarded us all at once. Two men dove to inspect below the waterline, there was our agent, police, immigration, customs, harbour master, naval officer and a guy who fumigated the boat such that we had to leave for two hours, right when it started to rain. And did it rain! For over two hours it was more than torrential. The streets quickly became rivers.

 So we have been at anchor here for two days and I have discovered that I (Mike) like boobies, especially the blue ones. (Although the red ones are also nice). The seals are without fear and sleep where ever they want. The local boats are ringed with barbed wire as a deterrent. Freewheel has a stern scoop, leading to a vertical three step ladder and a gate. In the middle of the night a seal was able to negotiate the ladder and the gate to sleep on the deck. Come morning all that was left was his calling card(s).

 

We expect to stay in the archipelago for about twenty days, so hope to have more before we leave. Until then…………..M&G

 

 

Mr Noreago's current address - the prison adjacent to the canal

 

 

10 minutes after dropping anchor in the Galapagos

Will this finally shut up the rumours about my lack of fishing ability?

local bus transport - US school buses with a take no prisoner attitude

Sardinia -Belarics - Southern Spain

Sardinia to Southern Spain - end of season 11

 

Hi All:

 Hard to believe, but our sailing season is at an end. Although at times, we felt like it would never end (like when motoring into the ever present Mediteranean chop). But now we look back and think, where did the time go.

We have logged into our winter mooring in Almerimar, Spain, which is about 130 miles east of Gibraltar. Gib was our target, but the nearby marina there disallowed staying on your boat while you worked on it. Plus you had to pay the marina an additional 10-20 euros per day if you did your own work and not hire their “professionals”.

 Doing our annual tally from Monfalcone, Italy to Almerimar we put 2400 nautical miles under our keel and well over half of that was motoring.  The seasonal winds are prdominately NW, which was ideal for the direction we were heading. So where did all this SW originate?

Sardinian coast

 Since our last post we have visited  Sardinia, Minorca, Mallorca, Ibiza and finally  back to southern Spain. Southern Spain, Ibiza and Mallorca, we had visited before, and it was about there where we lost our transmission for the second time five years ago and the winds took us on a five day detour to Tunisia. This was just in time to witness the start of the Arab Spring.



The evening promenade after the day's heat - Alicante, Spain

 Although the sailing (motoring) was enjoyable and the crystal clear azure water is never something you would tire of, we didn’t find this later part of the season stirring the blood as before. This may have been due to: the anchorages being crowded because of high vacation season: fewer virginal anchorages-most now rimmed with condo and hotel walls with swimming buoys dominating the anchorages. It seemed to be acceptable to launch your overpowered inflatable dinghy and race through the anchored boats pulling a water skier or some inflatable chair.  Apart from the ongoing noise and wake, swim at your own risk was the rule. Less opportunity to anchor in the region meant increased use of marinas, which at high season rates (double, sometimes treble winter rates) dampened the desire to dawdle and explore the nearby town further. Cartagena, however, was an exception. We thoroughly enjoyed this “old style” Spanish town. Mahon , Menorca was also an unexpected treat.

The deep sheltered harbour of Mahon

Mahon harbour



Mahon

 


Almerimar - This whole region is a 30 year old planned community. Just outside the wall of condos, which rim the marina is the market garden of Europe. Plastic covered fields stretch as far as the eye can see. Apparently from space the whole area appears as one big white splotch. Two or three crops a year are grown of salad type vegtables, zucchini, etc. When we passed through here five years ago, we noted that half the condos and stores in the complex were empty. Today – no change. A very large community of live aboard boaters stay here for the winter. In fact quite a few boats are here that look like they haven’t moved in 5+ years. Many appear sadly abandoned.

The plastic green houses

 

Plastic green houses visible from space

Just a few days before we were to leave for home the weather turned very sour. By now we were on the hard and stripping everything off for the winter storage. The skies became very foreboding. At the height of the storm the rain was so dense we couldn’t see the boats stored next to us. Rain drove horizontally and poured in through the dorades and down the mast. The boat was shuddering on its cradle. It was a day later that we learned a twister (water spout doesn’t seem appropriate) had touched down about 250 meters away from the boat, but on the other side of the sea wall from the marina. Amazingly there was no serious damage to any boats. The locals said repeatedly – we have never had anything like this here-ever! We were later told that this region of Spain – now called Costa del Sol (sunshine coast) was previously called Costa del Vente (windy coast). It was supposedly changed in order to assist the condo developers in marketing their units. Who in their right mind would want to buy a retirement home (or leave their boat) on a wind driven coast.  Let’s hope the locals won’t have cause to say – yeah, this one was even stronger than the last one!

So today we are home in Waterloo (watching the Spanish weather on line) and awaiting the imminent arrival of grandchild number two.

 

Good wishes to you all.  Adios…….Mike and Grace

Our anchor and chain in 10 meters