Barbados to Trinidad - End of Season 14

Hi All:

Well, here we are, looking at the tail end of another season, while the folks back home are still struggling with the prolonged winter, delaying the start of their sailing season.

It seems all to soon, that we are back to doing hard time with Two Moons, who has been stripped of her all her sail wear and is standing in a dusty and hot (realy hot) boat yard in Trinidad. Our plan is to undergo a bit more extensive maintenance this year, while sitting out the hurricane season.

We launched in January, and put only 2400 nautical miles behind us, before arriving back on the hard as of the beginning of May. The boat is starting to feel more like a cottage on stilts or a land yacht, than a sail boat. But Trinidad is said to be the place to get maintenance and repairs undertaken, but does it have to be so bloody hot! Its only May!

Our last post ended as we were leaving Barbados where we had another lumpy sail into Bequia, an island of the Grenadines. Port Elizabeth was a delight with colourful houses ringing the full harbour. There was no roll for the first time in a month!

Bequia - port Elizabeth

 Canouan came next, a private island of the rich and famous. There was nothing more than an upscale hotel with no landing facilities so a day later we moved on to Mayreau. Here was that quintessential Caribbean Island shown in all those tourist brochures- palm trees, white sandy beaches, aquamarine waters and colourful beach huts. We hiked to the top of the island to overlook Tobago Cays, a nearby national Park, very popular with anchorages, and dive and snorkelling spots among a series of reefs. But seeing choppy waters and breaking surf we opted to head on to Union Island, Chatham bay. No palm trees but good snorkelling in clear waters. Even 4 meters down we could see huge star fish bigger than a dinner plate living beneath the boat.

 

Mayreau at sun up

Mayreau - about as good as it gets

We checked out of the Grenadines in Clifton harbour where we met Tevin, a scam artist, renting out mooring balls he didn’t own. We also had authentic buss-up-shirt, a Caribbean specialty, delicious though messy.

 

 

Mayreau anchorage

We sailed on to Grenada, skirting Kick-em-Jenny an active underwater volcano that was rumbling and threatening to erupt. Tyrell Bay in the island of Carriacou came first, then Grenada proper. When looking for an anchorage, we eyeballed St. George (island capital) and the Carenage, whose waterfront is listed as a must see. We thought it has seen better days, so we moved on to Trueblue Bay, where because of all the ongoing waterfront construction, we felt like we were anchored in a Home Depot parking lot, so on to Prickly Bay – finally a real cruiser friendly place.

 

On an island tour, we sampled many of its fruits and spices. We saw “Janet Houses”, homes built after a hurricane by that name with wood supplied by Dutch Guyana. Only about 10 by 12, they were used exclusively for sleeping as the climate allowed outdoor living year round. Our guide had fond memories of these homes as he grew up in one along with 15 relatives. He also pointed out a low growing fern like plant whose fronds were sensitive to touch. These fronds would curl up when stepped on and were used by slave catchers to track runaways. The Grenada chocolate factory was a taste treat, more so than the output of the oldest operating rum distillery. Rum produce in this 250 year old facility is for immediate consumption (zero aging), and at 75% proof is considered a flammable substance and not allowed on aircraft! For export they produce a 68% bottle and a chocolate rum. Regardless, the drink is really rough and just half a stagger away from being called moonshine.

Tell tale plant - open
 



Tell tale plant - closed after touching the fronds

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Feeding sugar cane into 250 year old crusher

Not much Health & Saftey on this crush site

The sugar cane run off sits in the sanitized`` vats

 

 

On a weekend we participated in the 1027^th Hash run on the island – a long standing Grenadian tradition.  It is essentially a paper chase with the track laid out with paper piles showing the way, or leading off to false trails. The run or walk thru island scenery is followed by beer, in more ways than one, and as “hash virgins” we were bathed in beer on the pretext of a photo shoot!

 

On the Hash route

Show up with new shoes and they will fill it with beer and make you drink
 

Our last sail for the season to Trinidad meant sailing past Venezuelan waters, where in the past, piracy has been an issue. It is recommended that you sail at night, in a group, skirting the oil rigs, without lights or AIS and filing a sail plan with the Trinidad coast guard. We encountered a lot of tanker traffic and in the interest of safety turned everything back on and sailed straight through without issue.

 Nearing Trinidad’s coast reminded us more of Canada’s Georgian Bay than a Caribbean island - no palm trees just wooded hills and rocks. Rounding into Chagauramas Bay, where we hauled out, we both thought -  Hamilton Harbour! This is definitely a working harbour, supporting the many oil and gas wells lying just offshore. But it is safe, being outside of the hurricane zone and has all the expertise and supplies necessary for any boat job. The one down side is that Two Moons is four boat lengths down wind from the very popular Roti Hut and every day from 9:30am on the delicious smells drive Mike to distraction. The other down side is the heat and rain, making slow work progress.. Even with her Turkish birka shielding her from the sun, it is frequently over 30 degrees Celsius inside the boat before 10:00am. And although this is said to be the dry season, the daily torrential down pours quickly turn the boatyard into muddy slop.

 

So once we get some of the major projects completed, our goal is to fly home early June where we are looking forward to our first Canadian summer in over 15 years. It just better not be too hot or rainy!

No rainin` here on Mayreau Mon - jus`limin

 

 

Cape Verde to Barbados

Hi All:

 

Well evidently, we made it! We landed in Barbados about a week ago after taking 18 days to cross the 2000 miles from Cape Verde to Barbados. For the most part it was an uneventful crossing, but we never did get the sail configuration right for the conditions. Our much anticipated down wind twistle rig was never needed for three quarters of the way, until after we took it down. Then it was too windy to raise it again. But our mantra was “sail for comfort – not speed”. At times the crossing was the proverbial “milk run”, interspersed with periods of “frappe”.

  

 

Daily Position Report Postings



Twistle Rig Running

Twistle Rig Furled

Sargasso weed floating about in large carpets constantly clogged our rudder and incapacitated the self steering. Fishing was a waste of time because of weed burying the lure. We saw next to no wild life apart from the odd dolphin and bird – a marked difference from our 2005 northern crossing, when we were never alone.

The devil weed

 

We watched the sea temperature creep up from 17 degrees C in Cap Verde reaching 28 degrees in Barbados.

 

A real mid Atlantic treat - fresh bread

Barbados

 We have been at anchor in Carlyle Bay, outside the capital Bridgetown for over a week, who along with about ten other boats endure constant rocking and rolling. There is a harbour in the town center, but is amidst traffic noise, lacks security and is not free from the effects of swell. The town of Bridgetown has grown on us since first arriving. Initial impressions being chaotic, dirty, tired and expensive. After a week we just think expensive. Some examples –1 litre fresh milk/$4.5Can, 1 whole pinapple/$14C, can Campbells soup/$4C, low end bottle wine/$20C and 1 litre petrol $3.75.

 

Earlier this week we rented a small car for a day ($150C) to explore the inner island, which did not meet expectations. Apart from a few shore line vistas, this low level island showed mainly sugar cane (rum) and scrub. On the positive side, it is the people which make the island. They are pleasant, polite and friendly. Genuinely nice people to meet.

 

NE shore

 

 

The wind has not eased since our arrival, which is abnormal according to the locals. We want a reprieve so we can make our 100 mile dash west to the Grenadines, an island chain running north-south, which we will follow down to Grenada, then Trinidad. It is there we will haul out and undertake some extensive cosmetic repair.

 

Sea horse and rider swam by the boat as excercise

Cheers……Mike and Grace

Season 14 - Canary Isles to Cape Verdes

 Hi All:

We left the Canadian winter behind early this year arriving in Tenerife on Jan. 8. Leaving home is always a bitter sweet experience, looking forward to new horizons while missing the comforts of home and family. Easton our 2yr old told his mom Grandma and Papa were back in the computer, with everyone looking forward to Skype sessions.

For the first week we had a car to help us stock the boat for forward passage and the purchase of boat parts. The marina, though very secure was a ways out.  Once launched, we headed into Santa Cruz. Here we had our life raft serviced and Mike continued work on the alternator problem. Even with parts brought back from home repairs did not go smoothly. It made for frustrating days and nights.

 

We had daily visits from boat hitchhikers, boys and girls alike looking for passage to Cape Verde or the Caribbean, wanting sailing experience and offering help on the passage. 

Once all our jobs were complete we waited for that weather window, leaving 3 weeks after our arrival. Our departing view of Tenerife was the snow capped mountains through the mist. The promised fair weather did not materialize. The passage was lumpy and cold, to say the least. Heavy swells and strong winds made it possible to see the sunset 5 times in one night. But, we made the 900 mile trip in exactly 7 days, down to the hour.

Sighting Landfall - Cape verdes
 



Mindelo harbour - the 20' boat next door is crossing over
 

Anchorage outside Mindelo harour

The town of Mindelo
 

 

Our destination, Mindelo, Cape Verde offered a well developed marina and a stable night’s sleep, but once outside the marina things were a little different. Mike was besieged by offers for help from boat boys looking for any kind of work. It became annoying, but at the same time understandable as jobs are scarce and poverty is evident all around.

 

Supplies are limited and since it is winter fresh fruit and vegetables are scarce..

The colourful markets are a daily event and we are amazed by the women carrying huge baskets of produce on their heads.

 

When the archipelago was discovered by European explorers, they encountered islands carpeted in green. As a source of food for subsequent passages they introduced goats, which stripped the landscape bare. Today in conjunction with drought, little vegetation remains. The island where we are based is essentially a volcanic sand pile.

Dessert like Sao Vicente

 

Sao Vicente will be our only landfall in the Cape Verde archipelago, but we did take the one hour ferry to Santo Antao a neighbouring island and to quote others it was “jaw droppingly beautiful”. Its’ volcanic history has left many peaks and valleys, each a little different from the last one. But in contract, the NE corner is very lush producing vegtables, sugar cane (rum) and even some coffee. Life here is difficult too. Farm homes are often little more than a hovel without the comforts of sanitation and electricity. But as our guide said many don’t know any other way of life.

 

These were some good ones
 

Children in the remote areas only attend school up to grade 6, unless their parents can afford to board them in a more central location. Plus they are required to pay for all books themselves.

NE part of Santa Antao
 



Banana Valley - Santa Antao

 



Remains of the volcano caldera on Santa Antao
 

Terraced farming for sugar cane, coffee, yams
 



 

Kids carnival dress - witches, vampires, mice seemed most popular??





 

 

Main road around Sao Antao - hand built
 

Carnival has just arrived in the islands and it is overwhelmingly loud!! carrying on into the wee hours of the morning.  Celebrations will go on for the rest of the month but we are on the eve of departure heading for Barbados- 2000 miles. The trip is termed a milk run, but here is hoping it doesn’t leave us feeling like the trip to Cape Verdes – cottage cheese.

Hand built road covers Santo Antao - volcanic rock road surface

 



Santa Antao coast

 

Where are they now?

If you are interested in our progress of crossing The Atlantic to Barbados, google  winlink.org/user Postions. Enter my radio call sign in the box, upper left of the map.   VE3MTI     I post daily position reports providing the radio gods allow.
 



End of Season 13 - Canary Islands

Hi All:

Well, that seemed to be a short season. It was as if we spent more time tending to the wants and needs of Two Moons, than we did sailing (which in fact was the case). We covered only 1060 miles before sending Two Moons to do hard time in Santa Cruz, Tenerife. In all fairness, much of the work time was examining all systems in preparation for next year’s big sail.

We came home early because a) we had exceeded our 90 day allowable time in Europe’s Schenegen Territory, b) it was so darn hot, c) the lure of grandchildren and d) we will return to The Canaries in January to catch the Trade winds across the Atlantic to the Caribbean.

It has been eight years since entering the Med and while much remains that we wanted to see, we decided the unrest was infringing upon where and when we wanted to go.  So it was time to move on. After the Cape Verdes, the Caribbean will be our next cruising area, if the hurricanes leave anything to see.

In all we visited five of the Canary Islands, before hauling out in Tenerife. Gran Canaria was the previous island and we thought these two quite similar, except Tenerife has the volcano (Mt. Tiede), reported to be the third largest in the world. Both islands have magnificent areas of natural beauty and areas of blight – tourist centers – rows of hotels and condos around magnificent beaches. Renting a car to investigate all the island corners, travelling on an excellent road system, was time really well spent. We visited all the interior mountains, outlying towns and ports, which remain immune to the blight (12 million tourist /year). But what we didn’t see, anywhere, was a canary. Named after the island and not vice versa, there was not one to be seen. Do they migrate to avoid the summer’s heat? (It was averaging between 30-45 C). Africa, which is 60 miles east, wouldn’t offer any relief and everything else is 600 plus miles.

We can see how it would be very easy to spend a season visiting the entire archipelago, because each island offers something different. Although, sailing between the islands proved to be a challenge. The strong winds from the north funnel between the islands, thereby kicking up the seas and combined with the swell makes for some bumpy rides.

About this time of year, boats from the north start to gather in the Canaries in preparation for the annual ARC (Atlantic Rally Crossing) which leaves in November. Their timing is such that they will spend the holiday season in the Caribbean or enable them to fly home. Opinion today is that this can be too early and the chance of storms still high, which is why we will make the jump in January.

So that’s it. We passed season 13 unscathed and are now at home enjoying the end to summer, watching the leaves change, partaking in the abundant local farmers market and watching the never-ending CNN coverage of the hurricane devastation of our next port of call.

Fair winds…….Mike and Grace

 

Tenerife

 

Tenerife coast line



Lava fields around Mt Teide

Mt Teide foothills

Mt. Teide

Tenerife interior

Tenerife interior

Some of the tourist baches

Coastal walkway Santa Cruz,Tenerife
 

 

Gran Canaria - they do love their beaches around the Canaries

 

Las Palmas - weekend gathering amongst the fishing boats

South Gran Canaria - Las Playas - massive sand dunes and beach

Las Palmas - a beach section of black lava rock

No sand between the toes on all beaches

Gran Canaria interior