Montenegro & Croatia 2014

 

 

 

 

Hi All: 

As indicated in our previous post, this is our second and last post for this 2014 season. Season 10 is finito.

We have arrived at our winter mooring at Monfalcone, Italy (near Trieste) and are preparing for lift out. Apparently the winter winds in the area can be substantial (force 9-10), such that the marina positions the boats on the land, bow to wind to lessen the chance of them falling over. We also have to winterize the boat against freezing – something not required since leaving Canada.

Since our last posting, we visited Montenegro (spectacular!) and parts of Croatia (lovely). We anticipate filling in the blanks in Croatia next spring, when we head south heading out of the Med. We skipped Slovenia because the coast line is very short and the check-in/out procedure and cost did not justify.

This summer we covered almost 2000 nm and regrettably 80% was by motor. For us, the winds were just not fair, but boats heading the other way had it right. Poor planning on our part. I guess.

It felt like unsettled weather joined us the moment we cleared into Montenegro and stayed right up to Italy (it’s pouring today) and it was a rare day not to have a weather warning included in the daily marine forecast. For the most part the accuracy and timing of the forecast was pretty good, so we could work around it. But it is important to stay informed because the area has significant winds that arrive instantaneously and hang on for days (the Bora from the north and the Sirocco from the south). The Croatian archipelago can afford smooth sailing in a blow, but sections can also channel the winds (hence one of our reason for skipping parts this go round).

The pics show one instance we all got it wrong and felt somewhat exposed. At one time we counted four water spouts dropping from a storm cell, but all dissipated before there was any serious alarm.

Hard to see - but we counted four spouts forming
 

If we were getting nervous/what about the boat just left of the base?
(click to enlarge)

MONTENEGRO

The main attraction of Montenegro is a fiord that almost rivals Norway. The Kotor Fiord cuts into the coast about 20 miles and is lined with steep hills/cliffs (1000m) presenting a magnificent vista. The red tiled roofed villages, breaking the shore line, seemed to start here. But the Kotor town castle walls, climbing from water’s edge to summit were nothing short of spectacular (1350 steps – we counted).

Looking down Kotor Fiord from the Castle

The Town of Kotor

Kotor castle
 

When exiting the fiord you pass two islands near Persat (Otok Gospa & Otok SV Djordje). One is a walled functioning convent. The other island is artificial, having been created by the people of Persat who boat out to the island every July 22 to drop a stone. The tradition started 1452 when an icon of the Virgin was discovered there. Today, the island supports a church which is swarmed daily by tripper boats.

Convent on the left - Artificial island on the right

St Stephen is also an island which gave us a wow! moment. This being Montenegro’s most photographed site, started life as a simple island fishing village, but was later joined to the mainland by a causeway. Today it is a 5 star hotel frequented by the well-heeled.



St Stephen - Montenegros most photographed scene

CROATIA

Another reason we skipped parts of Croatia was because –“you are coming at the wrong time of year -tourist season”. The many ancient walled UNESCO towns were reported to be shoulder to shoulder and the popular anchorages will be filled to capacity by the hordes of Italian boats. Well over half of the boats are Italian flagged.

But we got more than our fill of ancient walled towns and there are many attractive uncharted anchorages, you don’t need to stress yourself to enjoy Croatia’s offering. Unfortunately, many of the good anchorages have been filled with mooring balls operating as private concessions.

Korkula Monastary - wakes you at 0600 daily with 128 strikes of the bell
(counted that also)

Korkula town quay



Korkula castle turret



walled town of Korkula

 

One island, which has only recently been opened to the public, was Tito’s personal playground. But to say open to the public is a bit of a stretch. Visitation is by reservation only and only mega/super yachts are to be seen at the dock because of the astronomical mooring fees.

Pula -another ancient UNESCO town



Pula - Roman coliseum



Pula - commercial harbour cranes at night



submarine pens found everywhere - some large enough to moor inside



passing a bridge leading into Krka Nat,l Park Croatia
They were bungy jumping between the many passing boats



part of the vast array of waterfalls in Krka Nat'l Park
the pics don't do them justice



just after a thunderstorm in Havar

We have found Croatia is a good place to cruise despite the weather and always sloppy seas. The navigation aids/lighthouses are first class and bureaucracy is not anywhere near the burden we had anticipated. So we look forward to returning next spring and seeing many of the more touristy spots we bypassed this year.

 Our flights home are booked and boat jobs will be interspersed with day trips. We can only hope that Two Moons continues to dodge the bullet with any of the winter winds that may happen here in Monfalcone.

Good wishes to all……..Ciao……….Mike and Grace