Crete to Alanya, Turkey - August to October'12

We’ve now completed our eighth season and are back in Canada awaiting the onset of winter. In short, it was a good summer because we had no real agenda after aborting our plan to head into the Black Sea. This was the result of a confusing rollout of new visa rules by the Turkish government. That cruise is still on the table, but possibly a few years out. There remains many landfalls on the south Med shore that we haven’t seen (Egypt, Jordan, Israel), plus our summer next year will be split owing to the mid summer marriage of our second son back in Canada.

Because of Turkey’s changing visa rules we have each taken out two year Turkish residency visas, which allow us to remain without having to follow 90 days in/90 days out. This will greatly simplify any plans over the next two years.

Just try and connect the dots

All told we covered about 2500 nautical miles circumnavigating the Aegean Sea and ended back in southern Turkey at Alanya, where Two Moons is standing on stilts for the winter.

Alanya Marina, Turkey - winter berth

The last leg of our summer took us along Crete’s north shore from west to east and then we island hopped up to Turkey, where we followed the coast to Turkey’s southern shore. We had covered much of the Turkish area last summer, but we had a plan to set up for winter and then travel in land to Cappadocia before flying home. Arriving at Alanya we quickly settled into the cruisers social scene and busied ourselves with boat jobs in the cooler parts of the day, such that the time quickly evaporated (no pun) and we never met that goal.

.

Crete: We saw very few sailors along the coast of Crete. The entire journey from coast to coast was just as rugged and beautiful as our landfall in Gramvousa and it stayed oh so windy. Folks we met often told us that few people sail these shores during the summer due to the fierce winds that are ever present. Now why wasn’t the pilot guide clearer on that little point?

Chania, Crete - part of the beautiful Venetian harbour (with Turkish influence)

We spent several days at anchor on the Eastern shore waiting for the wind to ease and in the end we just had to go for it as time was running out on our EU visa. Expecting the worst, it was a great sail.



Chalkis, Greece - a delightful fishing harbour



SE Greek islands: The islands of Kasos and Karpathos were just as desolate and windy. With dramatic cliffs winds are fluky and often range from flat calm to force 6 in a heartbeat and then back again! We didn’t dawdle and moved on to Chalkis and then Simi, our final Greek island. This close to Turkey the Meltimi winds were more moderate.



Simi - our check-out port from Greece



Simi - where we loaded up on wine and pork



Turkey:

We checked back into Turkey at the same port as last year. All very easy except now you are required to purchase a card which is updated every time you pump out your holding tank. Not using it can impede your exit from the country, but someone seems to have forgotten to install easy access pump outs. The few available are within the high priced marinas, so you have a disincentive to use the card. Another good idea, but with poor implementation.

Alanya (our winter port):

DIY - mainsail repair

When we first arrived at Alanya it was bustling with preparations for the impending Vasco De Gama rally. About 17 boats were readying for a winter cruise down through the Suez into the Red Sea as far south as Eritrea, returning in the spring. The rally, (which we thought was defunct), originally continued down to India. But with the rise of piracy stemming from Somalia, few cruising boats, if any, are passing through the Red Sea/Suez. A June report stated that there were 12 tankers and 124 crew members being held for ransom. Two South African sailors have been held for over 500 days. Out of curiosity, we inquired into the cost of placing Two Moons aboard a tanker to safely transport us past the piracy area – but the $24,000 price tag answered that question.



Our 4:00 o'clock job - when it got too hot to work




The Alanya Marina stress reduction centre



But we have the winter to sort out the next few years travels. All told it was a good summer. Yes it was very, very hot and quite breezy. No, we didn’t catch a single fish – despite making Grace spit on the lure every time (according to one book that was supposed to guarantee success). But we never endured any gut wrenching passages and nothing broke. It was just as cruising is supposed to be – some good sails, warm clear water for swimming, scenic anchorages and sundowners served by 4:00.

Two weeks home and already we are looking forward to getting back.

Best wishes…….Mike and Grace

Peloponnese to Crete Aug 7'12

Hi All:

Today we are in eastern Crete, and as usual awaiting for the winds to ease so we can make the next island hop. The Meltimi has been is good form this summer blowing a constant NW 15 to 20 knots. I heard someone say it feels like he’s standing on the deck in front of a huge hair dryer which is turned on high.

Fortunately we have been sailing down wind since leaving the north part of the Aegean Sea. This has taken us down the west coast of the Aegean, inside a long straight by the Island of Evia, down past the east side of the Peloponnese and to Crete where we are now.

We have thoroughly enjoyed this area because the mainland has been mountains covered with evergreens and olive trees, This is a refreshing departure from the Greek islands which are basically rock, with scrub vegetation at best.

Evia Channel-Khalkis Bridge:

In order to escape the winds and inhospitable east shoreline of Evia, we opted to sail down through the Evia Channel – a very wide straight sided by large mountains. Half way down, the channel narrows to 39 meters at a bridge (Khalkis), where apparently it has been forded for over two thousand years. Because the town around the crossing is a major thoroughfare, this low level bridge is opened only once a day in the wee hours of the morning to minimize traffic disruption. Furthermore, unlike the rest of the Med, the bridge is tidal where the current passes under the bridge at around 7 knots. As a result, they only allow passage through at slack water. Our tidal tables, which have served us faithfully througout Europe, showed slack water at 12:30 pm. This timing we thought was very civilized, so we tied up at the town quay mid afternoon and prepared to wait. The quay is lined with tavernas, which are packed with vacationers ready to party. Which they did starting about seven pm and peaked about two am when the tavernas closed. We were still waiting. We finally got the call to transit the bridge at 3:30 am.

The cursed bridge

We have since inquired into the delay and have been told that the waters through the bridge are called “crazy waters” by the locals. Whereas you normally have two tides a day, here there have been as many as seven. The Port Police who operate the bridge will not (can not?) give you a time when passage may occur. They wait and watch to see when slack water is in effect. We had waited over 12 hours for a five minute transit.

Rumour has it is that Aristotle flung himself into the current in order to try and explain the complex tides and died in the process.

This bridge also carries a fee for passage. We were expecting to pay about 20 euros, which in itself is a little pricey. We were absolutely staggered when we were told 95 euros. Upon enquiry we learned that there is an obscure treaty in place since 2002 which applies only to this bridge. Apparently Canada and a couple of other countries (Albania, Peru and Brazil) have not signed. Hence there was a five times multiple levied on the non-signatories. Our first reaction was retreat, but after reconsidering the headwinds we’d be fighting going back, plus the inhospitable coastline we’d be passing and the 175 miles being added to our voyage, we reluctantly coughed up.

Although we were annoyed with this diplomatic nonsense, there was a good outcome to this. While waiting for the bridge an ex Canadian, now living in Khalkis, stopped at the boat. He tried to assist us in understanding the background and basis of this treaty and afterward was our host in touring the area for the next couple of days. The nonsense was quickly forgotten.

Heading south we visited a few harbours/marinas, but our preference is to anchor off. Since we were still in the shadow of Athens, these ports were crowded with charter boats, tripper boats and huge gin palaces.

Eastern Peloponnese – Hydra

This is one of those islands you don’t want to miss and at the same time you can’t wait to leave. Vehicles are prohibited and transport of choice is the donkey. The tiny natural harbour moors boats three deep and it is generally very hectic. Crossed anchors are a common occurrence. We had a brief visit, enjoyed the views and then left the crowds behind as we continued on our way.

The cramped harbour of Hydra



The only means of transport or haulage around Hydra



Monemvasia:

Three quarters of the way down the east coast of the Peloponnese is Monemvasisa, a rock island just off the mainland connected by a causeway.  Often called the Greek Gibraltar, the walled city on the island thrives and is constantly being rejuvenated. The medieval city had once withstood a three year siege.

Monemvasia from the rear

The medievia town on the other side of the island

The town square within the walls

The town

The town

While here we witnessed a 200 year old celebration of when the Greeks destroyed the dominant Turkish navy by sending fire ships amongst the anchored fleet. Each year they build a replica of a Turkish ship which is set on fire. Following a lengthy buildup, the replica was ignited. We didn’t realize beforehand but it was full of fireworks which went off vertically and horizontally passing though the fleet of boats anchored off to watch. It was quite the spectacle. Following the burning a second fireworks display occurred. All was quite an elaborate spectacle. Did somebody say there was a serious financial crunch occurring somewhere?

Attacking the Turkish vessel

End of the Turkish vessel

 Crete:

Still going south with the Meltimi winds we arrived on the western tip of Crete in Gramvousa. We anchored in the shadow of a mountain top castle, with waves breaking over a reef half a mile away. A more grand setting was hard to imagine. While sitting there for three days, we watched a herd of goats climb up and down a nearby sheer faced cliff, which we estimate to have been ten stories high. It would take them, young and old, an hour or more leaping from one tiny ledge to another. The anchorage is very desolate, but the peace was broken daily by the arrival of hundreds of tourists, who would climb to the fortress, have a swim and be gone before the next tour boat arrived.



Gramvousa-NWtip of Crete



  



Clouds over the mountain fortell strongt winds

 

 Since then we have port hopped along Crete’s north shore trying to negotiate the steady 20 knot wind. As we have remarked before, passing head lands or islands can be treacherous because of the katabtic winds swooping down the lea side. Winds will go from 10 knots to 40 in the blink of an eye. Many of the anchorages have lead to sleepless nights because apart from the anchorage funneling the winds, it also seems to increase around 3:00 am. Our cruising guide tells us not to visit any south port in Crete in the summer because of the katabatic wind effect. But in conversation with a local, where we remarked that we have seen so very few cruising boats along the north shore. His reply was that no one sails here in the summer, only fall and spring. It is much too windy in the summer.

Goat mountain climbing territory



Our tranquility is broken



We now have a deadline approaching, which we can’t miss. In 10 days we have to leave Greece (Schenigan Group) and check into Turkey, where we will again winter Two Moons. The Meltimi is supposed to ease towards September and we don’t have a long way to go, but the seas in this area are reported to be confused and violent so it could be a rough passage if it doesn’t start to abate soon. Never mind, we have a good supply of Stugeron (our sea sick pills of choice) aboard.

Next time we write we should hopefully be somewhere along Turkey’s south coast, where we hope to visit Cappadocia and grab a hot air balloon ride – but not if the Meltimi is still blowing.

Till then........cheers  Mike and Grace

North Aegean - Khalkidhiki Penninsula & Northern Sporades

Hi All:

This update is relatively short because of the lack of unique features encountered in this part of the Med. We were originally a little dispirited from our change in plans from going to the Black Sea to exploring the North Aegean Sea. We actually felt like we were filling in time. But we have enjoyed the area immensely.  Having left Turkey we have gone as far north as the sea would allow around the Khalkidhiki Peninsula, turned south through the Northern Sporades and are poised to enter an inland route exiting near Athens.

This is an area seldom cruised by yachtsmen, but we have found it offers some dramatic coastal scenery and supposedly some of the best sandy beaches in Greece. The area lacks the archeological sites found elsewhere, but this is because the Sporades were out of the main steam of history. Much is restored due to a major earthquake in 1965.

The heat has been intense as of late (40ish), but this region has been out of the strong northerly winds east of us, which have kept boats in that region harbour bound for two weeks. We in fact have needed to motor more than sail. Only just today have we had a good downpour to rinse the caked salt from Two Moons. The air is clearer also, so visibility is improved. The high level of evaporation from the sea creates a haze as is evident in some of our pics.

Khalkidhiki Peninsula

This area was the highlight of our cruise in this region, in that it has a collection of 20 very large monasteries dotted along the shores and mountain sides. The Akti Peninsula has been off limits for about 10 centuries to women, children, female animals and “smooth faced persons”. They have however relaxed the female animal and smooth faced person restrictions in the last century, but women and children are still unwelcome. Passing boats must stay off shore about one nautical mile if women are aboard. Hence our pics are limited by distance and hazy, but if you wish to see more check out Google Earth – The Akti Peninsula where others have posted better examples of the magnificent monasteries.

Apparently the inhabitants still use the Julian Calendar and their day is regulated by the Byzantine clock which has hours of varying length.

Also scattered throughout the area are single buildings inhabited by hermits which in some cases hang on the steep mountain slopes – no water – no electrics.

In our two day passage along its coast we saw next to no life, but just marveled at the Herculean effort necessary to bring in the materials and construct such structures in so inhospitable location.

Northern Sporades

This series of islands have been refreshingly different from their southern cousins. Good anchorages abound; the islands are green, many covered with pine, unlike the barren rocks south and the inhabitants are very friendly. Most of the harbours are full of small fishing boats, but their catch always appears miniscule. The most western island in the chain, closest to the mainland, Skiathos, is referred to as the Greek Riviera, owing to its fine beaches and excellent ferry access.



Molivos on Lesvos - the town typicaly built around the fortification



If there is one bugaboo about travel through the region is the frustrating shopping hours. Nothing opens before 10:00 am, shuts for the afternoon and reopens about dinner time and closes around 9:00pm……maybe. Different days have different schedules, but none that we have sorted out.



Mirina on Limnos



Mirina on Limnos Island



As we head south we are getting closer to Athens and holiday time so anchorages and harbours will overflow sooner in the day. Maybe not, what with the Greek economy. But the situation has not yet dampened the young Greeks enthusiasm to spend time late into the night in the many, many tavernas.

Now we watch the sabre rattling between Siria and Turkey. Maybe we won't winter in Turkey as planned.

Best wishes as the summer continues to roll out………Mike and Grace



Skopelos- said to be where they filmed Mama Mia




Thessaloniki - our most norther port - Greeces 2nd largest city



Turkey April-May 2012

 

We started the eighth year of our cruise when we returned to Turkey at the end of March. We took a couple of days in Istanbul to allow ourselves to adjust to the time difference  and visit a few more sights before the trip south back to Two Moons. The 6^th century underground water cistern was especially impressive. It covered 9800sqm. had 336 columns and 4m thick walls. Water was brought into the cistern from a distance of 19km.

 


Istanbul skyline fronted by floating fish restaurants




The Blue Mosque



6th century Bascilica cistern

cistern ceiling

 We had really hoped for a day bus to take us from Istanbul to our winter spot in Bodrum, so that we could see the 1000 kilometers of sights. We had previously done this trip overnight, but inexplicitly it wasn’t to be and we endured another 12 hour bus ride in the dark.

  

We found Two Moons in the YatLift yard in good shape. As had occurred in previous year, there had been no threat of hurricane, no revolution and no flood of swallows using Two Moons as their personal latrine. The only issue was that many of the trees lining the yard had been felled overwinter and cut into large blocks for future boat stands. We were situated meters from the carpentry shop and were covered inside and out with sawdust. But this was a quick fix, unlike scraping petrified bird poop.

    

It was an intensive month at the yard, taking care of boat jobs that had arisen since our last major haul out in Sweden, four years ago and it helped that the locality is excellent for obtaining supplies and technical assistance for us do-it-yourselfers. The area is famous for its gullets, which are kept in pristine condition in the boat yard next door. There are also many builders which turn out boats in wood and steel as large as 150 feet. We found that you need to shop aggressively for your boat bits, because nothing is priced, prices vary considerably and “Are we negotiating in Turkish lira, euros or US $?”.

The weekly market

The gullets of Bodrum

   

After launch, we sailed north with the spring southerlies (mid to late summer becomes the raging northerlies - Meltimi) with the expectation of exploring the Black Sea. Daily checking of Navtex revealed many live firing ranges along our path which warranted some annoying deviations. One day we were passed by two large convoys of Turkish war ships (approx 50 vessels) heading to one of the firing sites. Admittedly, some of the vessels looked a little long-in-the-tooth, but their numbers certainly surpasses that of Canada.

   Turkish war ships – two of the many

Rules for visas and staying in Turkey have been in transition for a while and have finally been resolved (?), but there still remains much self interpretation. You used to be able to hop a ferry to Greece for the afternoon, get a stamp and return to Turkey for another 90 days. Our current visa allows us to stay a total of 90 days out of 180. So after 90 days, it is out for 90. We felt this would necessitate us staying in the Black Sea longer than we wanted and prevent us from returning through the Bosporus (controlled by Turkey), back into the Med until we met their requirements. So we are circumnavigating the Aegean Sea counter clockwise, passing through Crete and Cyprus on the southern edge, to winter back in Turkey. Maybe, with better planning, we can head for the Black Sea next summer, or we go west to Croatia and Montenegro.

We are finding the Turkish coast superb cruising grounds because anchorages abound and when needed, top class marinas are being developed everywhere. But we are frustrated sailing between the Turkish mainland and the Greek islands and not being able to stop there, knowing that it beckons with cheap wine, pork and bacon. To stop legally requires costly and protracted check-in/out procedures. So we wait.

We managed one land excursion to the World Heritage site of Ephesus, a very extensive Roman archeological site. It was at one time a major port, but now rests about five miles from the sea due to silting. Although people have occupied the site since 1000BC, it was here that Christianity began to supplant the old Gods. St Paul stayed here around 53 AD and caused a ruckus, it was the home of Mary Magdalene and Anthony and Cleopatra visited because of the social, political and commercial prominence. There is even evidence of the first advertising, for the local brothel, still on display.

 The Library of Ephesus

Our check out of Turkey was a relatively painless procedure, apart from our misunderstanding with the Harbour Master demanding payment of a tax. Grace and I were both hearing 930 Turkish lira, when he was saying 9.30 TL (a difference of $500). But it was another situation where we had to run to the bank, pay the tax, return with the receipt before being allowed to move onto the next official.

It was but a short sail over to the neighbouring Greek island of Lesvos, where we would experience our second Greek check-in. With memories still fresh from last year, we were delighted when a petit woman did the work in one quarter of the time, at 25% less cost, than it took six men last year. For our first day in Greece we had bacon and eggs for breakfast, ham and cheese sandwiches for lunch and whopping big pork chops for dinner – washed down with 2 euro wine. The work chicken is not to be spoken for a while.

So today we are at anchor in a secluded sheltered bay on the south coast of the island of Lesvos while waiting for a few days of wet windy weather to pass. There is bacon in the fridge and wine in the cupboard and who says things are tough in Greece right now............Cheers